Manaslu Trekkers and podcasters

Episode 6 – Trekking the Manaslu Circuit: A Hidden Gem in the Himalayas

Transcript

Transcript

[Speaker 2] Hey there, fellow adventure seekers. Ready to hit the trails? Today we’re off to the Himalayas.

[Speaker 1] Ah, the Himalayas. Always a good choice.

[Speaker 2] You know it. Specifically, we’re exploring the Manaslu circuit in Nepal.

[Speaker 1] Oh, the Manaslu track. I’ve heard great things about it. A real hidden gem.

Less crowded, you know.

[Speaker 2] Exactly. And to guide us, we have the expertise of David Ways.

[Speaker 1] Author of Trekking in Nepal. Yeah, he really knows his stuff. Very practical advice.

[Speaker 2] Absolutely. So where exactly is this Manaslu track? What can we expect?

[Speaker 1] Well, it’s tucked away in the Gorkha district.

[Speaker 2] Gorkha district, okay.

[Speaker 1] Yeah, within the Manaslu conservation area. Stunning landscapes. You start in lush valleys following the Budi Gandaki river.

[Speaker 2] Sounds peaceful.

[Speaker 1] Yeah, it is. Charming villages, terraced fields, you know.

[Speaker 2] I can picture it. But does it stay that gentle the whole way?

[Speaker 1] Oh, no, no, no. As you ascend, the terrain gets much more rugged.

[Speaker 2] Now that’s what I’m talking about. Bring on the mountains.

[Speaker 1] You got it. Towering peaks, dense forests, even the chance to spot a snow leopard.

[Speaker 2] Wow. Talk about an adventure.

[Speaker 1] It’s incredible. David actually compares it to the Annapurna circuit from years ago, before it got so popular.

[Speaker 2] So like a step back in time. A more pristine experience.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. And speaking of time, how long does this trek usually take?

[Speaker 2] Yeah, that’s a key question. Got to plan those vacation days.

[Speaker 1] Well, David outlines a classic 14-day itinerary. He says it’s a good balance. Enough time to acclimatize.

[Speaker 2] Ah, acclimatization. Can’t forget about that.

[Speaker 1] Right. And of course, you can always add extra days for sidetracks, or just take it slow and enjoy the views.

[Speaker 2] 14 days in the Himalayas. Sounds like a dream.

[Speaker 1] It really is. But before you pack your bags, we need to talk about permits.

[Speaker 2] Uh-oh. Permits. Always a bit of a headache.

[Speaker 1] I know, right? But they’re essential. This isn’t a trek you can just wing.

[Speaker 2] So break it down for us. How many permits are we talking?

[Speaker 1] Five in total. First, the Restricted Area Permit for Manaslu. Pretty self-explanatory.

[Speaker 2] Makes sense. What else?

[Speaker 1] Then, the Manaslu Conservation Area Project Permit, the MCAP. That covers the whole national park.

[Speaker 2] Got it. Three more to go.

[Speaker 1] Yep. You’ll need the Annapurna Conservation Area Project Permit, too, the ACIP, because the Manaslu circuit dips into that area.

[Speaker 2] Ah, two for the price of one. Okay, what’s next?

[Speaker 1] Next is the Chumnubri Rural Municipality Permit. That one’s relatively new.

[Speaker 2] Oh, so things are changing. Keeping up with the times.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. And finally, the good old TIMS card, Trekkers Information Management System.

[Speaker 2] The TIMS card. That’s standard for most treks in Nepal, right?

[Speaker 1] Yeah, it helps track trekkers and ensure their safety. All part of responsible trekking.

[Speaker 2] Right. So, five permits in total. Sounds like a bit of paperwork, but all for good reason.

[Speaker 1] Definitely. It’s about protecting the region and ensuring everyone’s safety. It’s a privilege to trek there, you know?

[Speaker 2] Absolutely.

[Speaker 1] Okay.

[Speaker 2] Now, before we move on, you mentioned something about a two-person minimum.

[Speaker 1] Oh, yeah. That’s an important one. You can’t trek alone in the restricted areas.

Gotta have a buddy.

[Speaker 2] Interesting. So, even if I wanted to go solo, it’s not an option.

[Speaker 1] Nope. And that ties into the guide requirement. You need a registered guide for the Manaslu Trek.

[Speaker 2] A guide is mandatory. Can’t just DIY it.

[Speaker 1] Nope. Not for this one. And David is very clear about why.

Safety and logistics.

[Speaker 2] Makes sense. This is a remote area, right? Having an expert along would be reassuring.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. Plus, they can add so much to the experience. Local insights, cultural understanding, help with the language.

[Speaker 2] So, it’s about more than just safety. It’s about enriching the whole journey.

[Speaker 1] Absolutely. Now, let’s say you’ve got your guide and your trekking buddy. When’s the best time to go?

[Speaker 2] Okay. Timing is everything. What’s the ideal window for the Manaslu Trek?

[Speaker 1] Well, David really recommends October or November, maybe even early December. Clear skies, comfortable temperatures.

[Speaker 2] Fall in the Himalayas. Sounds magical.

[Speaker 1] It is. But be prepared for anything. You’ll go through a range of temperatures as you gain altitude.

[Speaker 2] Layering is key, right? Yeah. Always the mountain mantra.

[Speaker 1] For sure. Speaking of which, what about gear? What essentials does David recommend?

[Speaker 2] Yeah. What’s in the backpack for this adventure?

[Speaker 1] Well, the usual suspects, of course. Sturdy boots, warm layers, a good backpack. But one thing he really emphasizes is a water purification system.

[Speaker 2] Interesting. Why so important? I thought you could get water along the way.

[Speaker 1] You can at tea houses and villages, but David cautions about the reliability of local filtration.

[Speaker 2] Ah, so it’s better to be safe than sorry, especially at higher altitudes.

[Speaker 1] Absolutely. And he also suggests trekking poles, especially for that descent from Larkila Pass.

[Speaker 2] Good advice. Those knees will thank you later. Any other pro tips?

[Speaker 1] He always recommends some snacks. Energy boosts are essential.

[Speaker 2] Love that tip. Can’t go wrong with some trail mix. Sounds like David has really thought of everything.

[Speaker 1] He really has. He’s all about preparing you for this incredible adventure, physically and mentally.

[Speaker 2] That mental preparation is key too, isn’t it? Being ready for the challenges and the unexpected.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. And David captures all of that so well in his writing. He’s clearly passionate about this trek.

[Speaker 2] His enthusiasm is definitely contagious.

[Speaker 1] Right. But before we get too carried away, let’s talk about the budget.

[Speaker 2] Okay. Down to the nitty gritty. How much are we looking at for this experience?

[Speaker 1] Well, those permits will set you back around $170.

[Speaker 2] Not bad, considering what you get in return. What about everything else?

[Speaker 1] David talks about a couple of different options. Package tours or hiring a guide directly.

[Speaker 2] So which one is more budget friendly?

[Speaker 1] It depends. Package tours are convenient, but they can be pricier, especially those booked online.

[Speaker 2] He did mention hidden fees to watch out for, right?

[Speaker 1] Exactly. Hiring a guide directly gives you more control, but you still have to go through an agency for permits.

[Speaker 2] Okay. So no going rogue. So roughly speaking, how much would the guide-only option cost for, say, a 14-day trek?

[Speaker 1] David estimates around $882, including permits, guide fees, accommodation, meals, and transport.

[Speaker 2] That’s actually pretty reasonable.

[Speaker 1] It is. And you can always cut costs by roughing it a bit more.

[Speaker 2] I like that flexibility. So now that we’ve covered the basics, I’m dying to hear about the actual itinerary.

[Speaker 1] Me too. Where does this epic journey begin?

[Speaker 2] Let’s dive into that. What are the highlights?

[Speaker 1] Well, it all starts in Kathmandu, the bustling capital of Nepal.

[Speaker 2] Of course. Got to start in Kathmandu.

[Speaker 1] From there, it’s usually a bus or jeep ride to Arupat, where the trek begins.

[Speaker 2] So day one is all about getting to the starting line. What about day two?

[Speaker 1] Day two is where the real trekking starts, following the Budigandaki River through that lush valley.

[Speaker 2] I can hear the sound of the river already. What else?

[Speaker 1] You’ll see waterfalls, suspension bridges, terraced fields. It’s a feast for the senses.

[Speaker 2] Sounds incredible. Any villages along the way?

[Speaker 1] Oh, yeah. Plenty, each with its own charm. David mentions Jagat specifically.

It’s a larger village with permit checkpoints, and it’s the starting point for a side trek to the Sum valley.

[Speaker 2] The Sum valley. Oh, I’ve heard of that. A bit off the beaten path, right?

[Speaker 1] It is. Known for its Tibetan Buddhist culture. Stunning scenery.

Definitely worth considering if you have the time.

[Speaker 2] Noted. But even if we stick to the main circuit, it sounds like the scenery just keeps getting better and better.

[Speaker 1] Oh, it does. David talks about reaching the village of Lo, where you get your first glimpse of Mount Manaslu. Wow.

[Speaker 2] The big reveal.

[Speaker 1] He says it’s where the big mountain reviews begin, and they just keep getting more dramatic from there.

[Speaker 2] I can’t wait to hear about Larkiya La Pass. That seems to be the highlight of the whole trek.

[Speaker 1] It is. But before we get there, let’s talk about a few more key stops along the way.

[Speaker 2] Okay. I’m all ears.

[Speaker 1] Yeah.

[Speaker 2] Tell me about the villages, the challenges, the incredible views.

[Speaker 1] You got it. We’re diving deeper into the heart of the Manaslu trek.

[Speaker 2] So we’re in Lo, soaking in those first views of Mount Manaslu. Where do we go from there?

[Speaker 1] From Lo, the trail climbs further, taking you to Samagon, or just Sama, as it’s often called.

[Speaker 2] Samagon. Okay.

[Speaker 1] It’s a major start on the Manaslu circuit, a key spot for acclimatization, David says.

[Speaker 2] Ah, acclimatization. Essential at those higher altitudes, right?

[Speaker 1] Absolutely. You really need to let your body adjust before tackling Larkiya La Pass.

[Speaker 2] And Samagon seems like a pretty amazing place to do it. What does David recommend for that acclimatization day?

[Speaker 1] Well, he has a few suggestions. If you’re feeling spiritual, he suggests visiting the Samagon Monastery.

[Speaker 2] A monastery. Cool.

[Speaker 1] Yeah. It sits on a hill overlooking the village. He says the views from there are incredible.

[Speaker 2] Amazing. Any other options for those who might want a bit more activity?

[Speaker 1] Oh, absolutely. He mentions a five-hour hike to Panjin Monastery.

[Speaker 2] Another monastery.

[Speaker 1] Yeah. But the hike itself is supposed to be beautiful, winding through the landscape past chortens and prayer flags.

[Speaker 2] I can just imagine those colorful prayer flags against the backdrop of the mountains.

[Speaker 1] It’s a special site. And if you’re feeling really adventurous, there’s the option to trek to Manaslu Base Camp.

[Speaker 2] Oh, wow. To Base Camp.

[Speaker 1] Yeah. But David does caution that the pass is often blocked by snow and ice, so maybe not for the faint of heart.

[Speaker 2] Right. Probably best to check the conditions before attempting that one. So, after Samagon, what’s next?

[Speaker 1] Next stop on the itinerary is Sam Gordo, another village rich in Sherpa culture. More stunning mountain views.

[Speaker 2] I’m picturing those traditional stone houses with the Himalayas towering behind them.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. And from Samdo, things start to get a bit more challenging.

[Speaker 2] Oh, how so?

[Speaker 1] Well, the terrain gets more rugged as you prepare to climb to Larkia La Pass.

[Speaker 2] So Samdo is like the last taste of civilization before heading into the high-altitude wilderness.

[Speaker 1] In a way, yeah. It’s a place to gather your strength before the next leg of the journey. And speaking of the next leg, after Samdo, you reach Larkia Feti.

[Speaker 2] Larkia Feti, okay.

[Speaker 1] That’s the base camp for crossing Larkia La Pass. And if I recall, David had some interesting things to say about the accommodation there.

[Speaker 2] He did. He said it was pretty basic.

[Speaker 1] He did. He prepares trekkers for a rustic experience. Basic amenities, simple food.

[Speaker 2] So, not exactly a luxury stay.

[Speaker 1] Not quite. But he emphasizes that it’s all part of the adventure, and the camaraderie among trekkers makes up for the lack of fancy amenities.

[Speaker 2] True. Embrace the experience. So, after Larkia Feti, it’s the big day, crossing Larkia La Pass.

[Speaker 1] That’s right. It’s the highlight for many, but also the most challenging day. David recommends an early start, like well before dawn.

Wow.

[Speaker 2] Hiking in the dark.

[Speaker 1] Yeah. He says it helps to avoid the strong winds that pick up later in the day.

[Speaker 2] Makes sense. So you’re hiking by headlamp, surrounded by those massive mountains.

[Speaker 1] It’s supposed to be incredible, a very humbling experience. And as you climb, the views just get more spectacular.

[Speaker 2] Can’t even imagine. What’s it like reaching the top, reaching that pass?

[Speaker 1] It’s a moment of pure exhilaration, from what David says. Standing at 5,160 meters, with the whole Himalayan range spread out before you. He calls it a double pass, meaning you actually cross two high points.

[Speaker 2] Wow. Double the views.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. But then comes the descent.

[Speaker 2] Okay, so what’s that like?

[Speaker 1] It’s pretty steep. David says you need to watch your footing, use those trekking poles.

[Speaker 2] So, no relaxing stroll back down?

[Speaker 1] Not exactly. But the reward at the end of that descent is the village of Bimthang.

[Speaker 2] Bimthang. Wait, wasn’t that where the accommodations were better?

[Speaker 1] Yes. After Larkia Fadi, Bimthang offers a chance to rest and recharge. Nice teahouses.

Even the food is supposed to be excellent.

[Speaker 2] Oh, I bet. After that challenging day, a good meal must be amazing. And where to from Bimthang?

[Speaker 1] From there, the trek gradually descends through lush forests and villages, with Manasli still in view.

[Speaker 2] So the adventure continues, even after crossing the pass.

[Speaker 1] Definitely. David points out a few more key stops, each with its own unique character.

[Speaker 2] Like what? Tell me more.

[Speaker 1] Well, there’s Skarche, known for its beautiful forests and comfortable lodging. And then eventually you reach Dharapani, which is a pretty important point on the trek.

[Speaker 2] Why is Dharapani significant?

[Speaker 1] Well, it’s where the Manasli circuit meets up with the Annapurna circuit.

[Speaker 2] Oh, wow. So you could combine the two treks?

[Speaker 1] You could, if you had the time. But even if you’re sticking to Manaslu, Dharapani marks a turning point. From there, you have options for the last day.

[Speaker 2] Options? Like what?

[Speaker 1] You can take a jeep ride back to Besidhar. That’s a town connected to Kathmandu and Pokhara by bus.

[Speaker 2] OK, that makes sense. Get back to civilization.

[Speaker 1] Or, for the diehard trekkers, David outlines a two-day trek along a dirt road that also leads to Besisahar.

[Speaker 2] Wow. So even on the last day, you have the option to keep trekking.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s all about savoring those last moments in the mountains. Soaking it all in.

[Speaker 2] I love that. It seems like David has designed this itinerary to offer the perfect Manaslu experience. The right balance of challenge and reward.

[Speaker 1] He really has. And he brings it to life with his writing. The personal stories, the tips.

You really feel like you’re right there with him on the trail.

[Speaker 2] That’s what a good guidebook does, right? It makes you want to experience it all for yourself. Speaking of which, David also talks about the food.

[Speaker 1] Yes. He paints quite a picture of those tea house meals.

[Speaker 2] OK, give me the details. What are we eating on the Manaslu trek?

[Speaker 1] He describes it as a mix of traditional Nepali dishes and trekking staples. Plenty to satisfy hungry hikers.

[Speaker 2] Like what?

[Speaker 1] He mentions dal pat, momos, fried rice, pancakes, all made with fresh ingredients.

[Speaker 2] Dal pat. Now that’s a classic trekking meal.

[Speaker 1] It is. He says you’ll find it pretty much everywhere. And he notes that there are plenty of vegetarian options, too.

[Speaker 2] Good to know. But didn’t he say there was one place where the food was more basic?

[Speaker 1] Ah, you’re remembering Larkia Fidi.

[Speaker 2] That’s it.

[Speaker 1] He does say the menu is more limited there, just because of the logistics of getting supplies up to that altitude.

[Speaker 2] So maybe pack an extra snack for that part.

[Speaker 1] Probably a good idea. But, you know, he also points out that the incredible views at Larkia Fidi make up for any culinary limitations.

[Speaker 2] True. You’re not going there for a gourmet experience. It’s all about the adventure.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. And speaking of the experience, David talks about this golden rule of teahouse etiquette that I found fascinating.

[Speaker 2] Oh, yeah. What was that?

[Speaker 1] It’s about dining at the teahouse where you’re staying. It’s expected.

[Speaker 2] So no trying out different teahouses for dinner.

[Speaker 1] Not really. He says your room charge might increase if you eat elsewhere.

[Speaker 2] Interesting. So it’s a way to support the local businesses.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s part of the cultural understanding. You’re their guest.

And it’s those little insights that make David’s guidebook so special. It’s more than just logistics. He captures the whole cultural experience.

[Speaker 2] It sounds like it. As we’ve been talking, I’ve been wondering, who is this trek really perfect for? What kind of person would thrive on the Manaslu circuit?

[Speaker 1] That’s a great question. I think based on everything David says, it’s for someone who’s looking for a genuine adventure, someone who’s OK with a challenge.

[Speaker 2] Someone who’s not afraid to step off the beaten path.

[Speaker 1] Yes. And someone who wants a more authentic Himalayan experience, away from the crowds.

[Speaker 2] Someone who wants to really immerse themselves in the culture and the landscape.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s not just a vacation. It’s a transformative journey.

[Speaker 2] Well said. David’s guidebook sounds like an invaluable resource for anyone considering this trek.

[Speaker 1] It really is. He covers everything you need to know. And if our listeners want to learn even more, I highly recommend checking out his website, The Longest Way Home, or picking up his book, Trekking in Nepal.

[Speaker 2] Perfect. Well, I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling inspired. Ready to trade in my office chair for some hiking boots.

[Speaker 1] Me too. But for now, we can keep dreaming and planning.

[Speaker 2] Who knows? Maybe someday we’ll cross paths on that Larkia La Pass, sharing stories of our own Manaslu adventures.

[Speaker 1] Wouldn’t that be amazing? Until then, happy trails to everyone.

[Speaker 2] It really does. You know, as we’ve been talking about all this, I keep thinking about how Manaslu compares to other treks in the Himalayas. What makes it stand out?

[Speaker 1] That’s a good question. I think David talks about that a lot in his book. He really emphasizes that sense of discovery you get on Manaslu, something that’s harder to find in the more popular trekking areas.

[Speaker 2] So it’s like that hidden gem that hasn’t been overrun yet.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. He describes it as having a more raw, authentic feel. I like that.

He talks about visiting these remote villages where life just moves at a slower pace, where the traditions are still so strong.

[Speaker 2] That cultural immersion must be pretty special.

[Speaker 1] Oh, it is. And he also talks about the variety of landscapes you see on the Manaslu trek.

[Speaker 2] Right. It’s not just one type of scenery the whole way through.

[Speaker 1] No, not at all. You go through lush valleys, forests, high mountain passes, glacial areas. It’s amazing.

[Speaker 2] It’s like you get a little bit of everything the Himalayas has to offer all in one trek.

[Speaker 1] Right. And something else David brings up that I think is important is responsible trekking.

[Speaker 2] Ah, yes. That’s crucial, isn’t it?

[Speaker 1] It is. He talks about minimizing our impact, being respectful of the customs, supporting the local communities.

[Speaker 2] All part of being a good visitor.

[Speaker 1] Exactly. Leaving those mountains as pristine as we found them.

[Speaker 2] So that future generations can enjoy them too.

[Speaker 1] Right. And he gives some really practical tips, like packing out your trash, using refillable water bottles, supporting local businesses, all those little things that add up.

[Speaker 2] Great advice. Being mindful of our actions.

[Speaker 1] Yeah.

[Speaker 2] It all makes a difference.

[Speaker 1] It does. It’s about finding that balance, you know?

[Speaker 2] Yeah.

[Speaker 1] Adventure and responsibility.

[Speaker 2] Absolutely. Well, it sounds like the Manaslu trek is a truly special experience, a chance to really connect with the mountains, with the culture, and with yourself, I imagine.

[Speaker 1] It is. And I think David’s guidebook does an amazing job of capturing all of that. If anyone out there is even thinking about this trek, I highly recommend checking out his website.

[Speaker 2] The Longest Way Home.

[Speaker 1] That’s it. Or picking up his book, Trekking in Nepal.

[Speaker 2] Great resources. Well, I would say I’m feeling pretty inspired to lace up my boots and hit the trail. How about you?

[Speaker 1] Me too. Maybe someday we’ll both find ourselves on that Larkiala Pass, sharing stories of our own Manaslu adventures.

[Speaker 2] That would be incredible.

[Speaker 1] It would. Until then, happy trekking, everyone.

[Speaker 2] And happy travels.


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