
Join two engaging hosts and renowned guidebook author David Ways for an insider’s look at Nepal. Each Monday episode unpacks essential travel topics through three unique perspectives, blending expert knowledge with real experiences.
From arrival logistics to trekking tips, packing essentials to hidden gems, discover Nepal’s secrets through practical advice and engaging stories. Whether planning your first visit or seeking deeper insights, Nepal Uncovered delivers the knowledge and inspiration you need.
Features:
Expert guidance from Nepal’s leading guidebook author
Practical travel insights
Ready for an unforgettable Himalayan adventure? In this episode, we explore the Manaslu Circuit, a stunning and less-crowded alternative to Nepalโs more popular treks. Guided by David Ways, author ofย Trekking in Nepalย and founder ofย The Longest Way Home, weโll take you through everything you need to know to tackle this incredible journey.
Weโll cover:
The Route:ย From lush valleys and charming villages to rugged mountain passes and breathtaking views of Mount Manaslu.
Permits and Logistics:ย The five essential permits, guide requirements, and how to plan your trek.
Itinerary Highlights:ย Key stops like Samagaon, Larkya La Pass, and Bimthang, plus tips for acclimatization and side treks.
Gear and Preparation:ย What to pack, from sturdy boots to water purification systems.
Cultural Immersion:ย Tea house etiquette, local cuisine, and the importance of responsible trekking.
Whether youโre a seasoned trekker or dreaming of your first Himalayan adventure, this episode will inspire and prepare you for the trek of a lifetime.
Full guide is available at https://www.thelongestwayhome.com/travel-resources/trekking/manaslu-circuit-trek.html


Episode 6 – Trekking the Manaslu Circuit: A Hidden Gem in the Himalayas
Transcript
Less crowded, you know.
[Speaker 2] Exactly. And to guide us, we have the expertise of David Ways. [Speaker 1] Author of Trekking in Nepal. Yeah, he really knows his stuff. Very practical advice. [Speaker 2] Absolutely. So where exactly is this Manaslu track? What can we expect? [Speaker 1] Well, it’s tucked away in the Gorkha district. [Speaker 2] Gorkha district, okay. [Speaker 1] Yeah, within the Manaslu conservation area. Stunning landscapes. You start in lush valleys following the Budi Gandaki river. [Speaker 2] Sounds peaceful. [Speaker 1] Yeah, it is. Charming villages, terraced fields, you know. [Speaker 2] I can picture it. But does it stay that gentle the whole way? [Speaker 1] Oh, no, no, no. As you ascend, the terrain gets much more rugged. [Speaker 2] Now that’s what I’m talking about. Bring on the mountains. [Speaker 1] You got it. Towering peaks, dense forests, even the chance to spot a snow leopard. [Speaker 2] Wow. Talk about an adventure. [Speaker 1] It’s incredible. David actually compares it to the Annapurna circuit from years ago, before it got so popular. [Speaker 2] So like a step back in time. A more pristine experience. [Speaker 1] Exactly. And speaking of time, how long does this trek usually take? [Speaker 2] Yeah, that’s a key question. Got to plan those vacation days. [Speaker 1] Well, David outlines a classic 14-day itinerary. He says it’s a good balance. Enough time to acclimatize. [Speaker 2] Ah, acclimatization. Can’t forget about that. [Speaker 1] Right. And of course, you can always add extra days for sidetracks, or just take it slow and enjoy the views. [Speaker 2] 14 days in the Himalayas. Sounds like a dream. [Speaker 1] It really is. But before you pack your bags, we need to talk about permits. [Speaker 2] Uh-oh. Permits. Always a bit of a headache. [Speaker 1] I know, right? But they’re essential. This isn’t a trek you can just wing. [Speaker 2] So break it down for us. How many permits are we talking? [Speaker 1] Five in total. First, the Restricted Area Permit for Manaslu. Pretty self-explanatory. [Speaker 2] Makes sense. What else? [Speaker 1] Then, the Manaslu Conservation Area Project Permit, the MCAP. That covers the whole national park. [Speaker 2] Got it. Three more to go. [Speaker 1] Yep. You’ll need the Annapurna Conservation Area Project Permit, too, the ACIP, because the Manaslu circuit dips into that area. [Speaker 2] Ah, two for the price of one. Okay, what’s next? [Speaker 1] Next is the Chumnubri Rural Municipality Permit. That one’s relatively new. [Speaker 2] Oh, so things are changing. Keeping up with the times. [Speaker 1] Exactly. And finally, the good old TIMS card, Trekkers Information Management System. [Speaker 2] The TIMS card. That’s standard for most treks in Nepal, right? [Speaker 1] Yeah, it helps track trekkers and ensure their safety. All part of responsible trekking. [Speaker 2] Right. So, five permits in total. Sounds like a bit of paperwork, but all for good reason. [Speaker 1] Definitely. It’s about protecting the region and ensuring everyone’s safety. It’s a privilege to trek there, you know? [Speaker 2] Absolutely. [Speaker 1] Okay. [Speaker 2] Now, before we move on, you mentioned something about a two-person minimum. [Speaker 1] Oh, yeah. That’s an important one. You can’t trek alone in the restricted areas.Gotta have a buddy.
[Speaker 2] Interesting. So, even if I wanted to go solo, it’s not an option. [Speaker 1] Nope. And that ties into the guide requirement. You need a registered guide for the Manaslu Trek. [Speaker 2] A guide is mandatory. Can’t just DIY it. [Speaker 1] Nope. Not for this one. And David is very clear about why.Safety and logistics.
[Speaker 2] Makes sense. This is a remote area, right? Having an expert along would be reassuring. [Speaker 1] Exactly. Plus, they can add so much to the experience. Local insights, cultural understanding, help with the language. [Speaker 2] So, it’s about more than just safety. It’s about enriching the whole journey. [Speaker 1] Absolutely. Now, let’s say you’ve got your guide and your trekking buddy. When’s the best time to go? [Speaker 2] Okay. Timing is everything. What’s the ideal window for the Manaslu Trek? [Speaker 1] Well, David really recommends October or November, maybe even early December. Clear skies, comfortable temperatures. [Speaker 2] Fall in the Himalayas. Sounds magical. [Speaker 1] It is. But be prepared for anything. You’ll go through a range of temperatures as you gain altitude. [Speaker 2] Layering is key, right? Yeah. Always the mountain mantra. [Speaker 1] For sure. Speaking of which, what about gear? What essentials does David recommend? [Speaker 2] Yeah. What’s in the backpack for this adventure? [Speaker 1] Well, the usual suspects, of course. Sturdy boots, warm layers, a good backpack. But one thing he really emphasizes is a water purification system. [Speaker 2] Interesting. Why so important? I thought you could get water along the way. [Speaker 1] You can at tea houses and villages, but David cautions about the reliability of local filtration. [Speaker 2] Ah, so it’s better to be safe than sorry, especially at higher altitudes. [Speaker 1] Absolutely. And he also suggests trekking poles, especially for that descent from Larkila Pass. [Speaker 2] Good advice. Those knees will thank you later. Any other pro tips? [Speaker 1] He always recommends some snacks. Energy boosts are essential. [Speaker 2] Love that tip. Can’t go wrong with some trail mix. Sounds like David has really thought of everything. [Speaker 1] He really has. He’s all about preparing you for this incredible adventure, physically and mentally. [Speaker 2] That mental preparation is key too, isn’t it? Being ready for the challenges and the unexpected. [Speaker 1] Exactly. And David captures all of that so well in his writing. He’s clearly passionate about this trek. [Speaker 2] His enthusiasm is definitely contagious. [Speaker 1] Right. But before we get too carried away, let’s talk about the budget. [Speaker 2] Okay. Down to the nitty gritty. How much are we looking at for this experience? [Speaker 1] Well, those permits will set you back around $170. [Speaker 2] Not bad, considering what you get in return. What about everything else? [Speaker 1] David talks about a couple of different options. Package tours or hiring a guide directly. [Speaker 2] So which one is more budget friendly? [Speaker 1] It depends. Package tours are convenient, but they can be pricier, especially those booked online. [Speaker 2] He did mention hidden fees to watch out for, right? [Speaker 1] Exactly. Hiring a guide directly gives you more control, but you still have to go through an agency for permits. [Speaker 2] Okay. So no going rogue. So roughly speaking, how much would the guide-only option cost for, say, a 14-day trek? [Speaker 1] David estimates around $882, including permits, guide fees, accommodation, meals, and transport. [Speaker 2] That’s actually pretty reasonable. [Speaker 1] It is. And you can always cut costs by roughing it a bit more. [Speaker 2] I like that flexibility. So now that we’ve covered the basics, I’m dying to hear about the actual itinerary. [Speaker 1] Me too. Where does this epic journey begin? [Speaker 2] Let’s dive into that. What are the highlights? [Speaker 1] Well, it all starts in Kathmandu, the bustling capital of Nepal. [Speaker 2] Of course. Got to start in Kathmandu. [Speaker 1] From there, it’s usually a bus or jeep ride to Arupat, where the trek begins. [Speaker 2] So day one is all about getting to the starting line. What about day two? [Speaker 1] Day two is where the real trekking starts, following the Budigandaki River through that lush valley. [Speaker 2] I can hear the sound of the river already. What else? [Speaker 1] You’ll see waterfalls, suspension bridges, terraced fields. It’s a feast for the senses. [Speaker 2] Sounds incredible. Any villages along the way? [Speaker 1] Oh, yeah. Plenty, each with its own charm. David mentions Jagat specifically.It’s a larger village with permit checkpoints, and it’s the starting point for a side trek to the Sum valley.
[Speaker 2] The Sum valley. Oh, I’ve heard of that. A bit off the beaten path, right? [Speaker 1] It is. Known for its Tibetan Buddhist culture. Stunning scenery.Definitely worth considering if you have the time.
[Speaker 2] Noted. But even if we stick to the main circuit, it sounds like the scenery just keeps getting better and better. [Speaker 1] Oh, it does. David talks about reaching the village of Lo, where you get your first glimpse of Mount Manaslu. Wow. [Speaker 2] The big reveal. [Speaker 1] He says it’s where the big mountain reviews begin, and they just keep getting more dramatic from there. [Speaker 2] I can’t wait to hear about Larkiya La Pass. That seems to be the highlight of the whole trek. [Speaker 1] It is. But before we get there, let’s talk about a few more key stops along the way. [Speaker 2] Okay. I’m all ears. [Speaker 1] Yeah. [Speaker 2] Tell me about the villages, the challenges, the incredible views. [Speaker 1] You got it. We’re diving deeper into the heart of the Manaslu trek. [Speaker 2] So we’re in Lo, soaking in those first views of Mount Manaslu. Where do we go from there? [Speaker 1] From Lo, the trail climbs further, taking you to Samagon, or just Sama, as it’s often called. [Speaker 2] Samagon. Okay. [Speaker 1] It’s a major start on the Manaslu circuit, a key spot for acclimatization, David says. [Speaker 2] Ah, acclimatization. Essential at those higher altitudes, right? [Speaker 1] Absolutely. You really need to let your body adjust before tackling Larkiya La Pass. [Speaker 2] And Samagon seems like a pretty amazing place to do it. What does David recommend for that acclimatization day? [Speaker 1] Well, he has a few suggestions. If you’re feeling spiritual, he suggests visiting the Samagon Monastery. [Speaker 2] A monastery. Cool. [Speaker 1] Yeah. It sits on a hill overlooking the village. He says the views from there are incredible. [Speaker 2] Amazing. Any other options for those who might want a bit more activity? [Speaker 1] Oh, absolutely. He mentions a five-hour hike to Panjin Monastery. [Speaker 2] Another monastery. [Speaker 1] Yeah. But the hike itself is supposed to be beautiful, winding through the landscape past chortens and prayer flags. [Speaker 2] I can just imagine those colorful prayer flags against the backdrop of the mountains. [Speaker 1] It’s a special site. And if you’re feeling really adventurous, there’s the option to trek to Manaslu Base Camp. [Speaker 2] Oh, wow. To Base Camp. [Speaker 1] Yeah. But David does caution that the pass is often blocked by snow and ice, so maybe not for the faint of heart. [Speaker 2] Right. Probably best to check the conditions before attempting that one. So, after Samagon, what’s next? [Speaker 1] Next stop on the itinerary is Sam Gordo, another village rich in Sherpa culture. More stunning mountain views. [Speaker 2] I’m picturing those traditional stone houses with the Himalayas towering behind them. [Speaker 1] Exactly. And from Samdo, things start to get a bit more challenging. [Speaker 2] Oh, how so? [Speaker 1] Well, the terrain gets more rugged as you prepare to climb to Larkia La Pass. [Speaker 2] So Samdo is like the last taste of civilization before heading into the high-altitude wilderness. [Speaker 1] In a way, yeah. It’s a place to gather your strength before the next leg of the journey. And speaking of the next leg, after Samdo, you reach Larkia Feti. [Speaker 2] Larkia Feti, okay. [Speaker 1] That’s the base camp for crossing Larkia La Pass. And if I recall, David had some interesting things to say about the accommodation there. [Speaker 2] He did. He said it was pretty basic. [Speaker 1] He did. He prepares trekkers for a rustic experience. Basic amenities, simple food. [Speaker 2] So, not exactly a luxury stay. [Speaker 1] Not quite. But he emphasizes that it’s all part of the adventure, and the camaraderie among trekkers makes up for the lack of fancy amenities. [Speaker 2] True. Embrace the experience. So, after Larkia Feti, it’s the big day, crossing Larkia La Pass. [Speaker 1] That’s right. It’s the highlight for many, but also the most challenging day. David recommends an early start, like well before dawn.Wow.
[Speaker 2] Hiking in the dark. [Speaker 1] Yeah. He says it helps to avoid the strong winds that pick up later in the day. [Speaker 2] Makes sense. So you’re hiking by headlamp, surrounded by those massive mountains. [Speaker 1] It’s supposed to be incredible, a very humbling experience. And as you climb, the views just get more spectacular. [Speaker 2] Can’t even imagine. What’s it like reaching the top, reaching that pass? [Speaker 1] It’s a moment of pure exhilaration, from what David says. Standing at 5,160 meters, with the whole Himalayan range spread out before you. He calls it a double pass, meaning you actually cross two high points. [Speaker 2] Wow. Double the views. [Speaker 1] Exactly. But then comes the descent. [Speaker 2] Okay, so what’s that like? [Speaker 1] It’s pretty steep. David says you need to watch your footing, use those trekking poles. [Speaker 2] So, no relaxing stroll back down? [Speaker 1] Not exactly. But the reward at the end of that descent is the village of Bimthang. [Speaker 2] Bimthang. Wait, wasn’t that where the accommodations were better? [Speaker 1] Yes. After Larkia Fadi, Bimthang offers a chance to rest and recharge. Nice teahouses.Even the food is supposed to be excellent.
[Speaker 2] Oh, I bet. After that challenging day, a good meal must be amazing. And where to from Bimthang? [Speaker 1] From there, the trek gradually descends through lush forests and villages, with Manasli still in view. [Speaker 2] So the adventure continues, even after crossing the pass. [Speaker 1] Definitely. David points out a few more key stops, each with its own unique character. [Speaker 2] Like what? Tell me more. [Speaker 1] Well, there’s Skarche, known for its beautiful forests and comfortable lodging. And then eventually you reach Dharapani, which is a pretty important point on the trek. [Speaker 2] Why is Dharapani significant? [Speaker 1] Well, it’s where the Manasli circuit meets up with the Annapurna circuit. [Speaker 2] Oh, wow. So you could combine the two treks? [Speaker 1] You could, if you had the time. But even if you’re sticking to Manaslu, Dharapani marks a turning point. From there, you have options for the last day. [Speaker 2] Options? Like what? [Speaker 1] You can take a jeep ride back to Besidhar. That’s a town connected to Kathmandu and Pokhara by bus. [Speaker 2] OK, that makes sense. Get back to civilization. [Speaker 1] Or, for the diehard trekkers, David outlines a two-day trek along a dirt road that also leads to Besisahar. [Speaker 2] Wow. So even on the last day, you have the option to keep trekking. [Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s all about savoring those last moments in the mountains. Soaking it all in. [Speaker 2] I love that. It seems like David has designed this itinerary to offer the perfect Manaslu experience. The right balance of challenge and reward. [Speaker 1] He really has. And he brings it to life with his writing. The personal stories, the tips.You really feel like you’re right there with him on the trail.
[Speaker 2] That’s what a good guidebook does, right? It makes you want to experience it all for yourself. Speaking of which, David also talks about the food. [Speaker 1] Yes. He paints quite a picture of those tea house meals. [Speaker 2] OK, give me the details. What are we eating on the Manaslu trek? [Speaker 1] He describes it as a mix of traditional Nepali dishes and trekking staples. Plenty to satisfy hungry hikers. [Speaker 2] Like what? [Speaker 1] He mentions dal pat, momos, fried rice, pancakes, all made with fresh ingredients. [Speaker 2] Dal pat. Now that’s a classic trekking meal. [Speaker 1] It is. He says you’ll find it pretty much everywhere. And he notes that there are plenty of vegetarian options, too. [Speaker 2] Good to know. But didn’t he say there was one place where the food was more basic? [Speaker 1] Ah, you’re remembering Larkia Fidi. [Speaker 2] That’s it. [Speaker 1] He does say the menu is more limited there, just because of the logistics of getting supplies up to that altitude. [Speaker 2] So maybe pack an extra snack for that part. [Speaker 1] Probably a good idea. But, you know, he also points out that the incredible views at Larkia Fidi make up for any culinary limitations. [Speaker 2] True. You’re not going there for a gourmet experience. It’s all about the adventure. [Speaker 1] Exactly. And speaking of the experience, David talks about this golden rule of teahouse etiquette that I found fascinating. [Speaker 2] Oh, yeah. What was that? [Speaker 1] It’s about dining at the teahouse where you’re staying. It’s expected. [Speaker 2] So no trying out different teahouses for dinner. [Speaker 1] Not really. He says your room charge might increase if you eat elsewhere. [Speaker 2] Interesting. So it’s a way to support the local businesses. [Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s part of the cultural understanding. You’re their guest.And it’s those little insights that make David’s guidebook so special. It’s more than just logistics. He captures the whole cultural experience.
[Speaker 2] It sounds like it. As we’ve been talking, I’ve been wondering, who is this trek really perfect for? What kind of person would thrive on the Manaslu circuit? [Speaker 1] That’s a great question. I think based on everything David says, it’s for someone who’s looking for a genuine adventure, someone who’s OK with a challenge. [Speaker 2] Someone who’s not afraid to step off the beaten path. [Speaker 1] Yes. And someone who wants a more authentic Himalayan experience, away from the crowds. [Speaker 2] Someone who wants to really immerse themselves in the culture and the landscape. [Speaker 1] Exactly. It’s not just a vacation. It’s a transformative journey. [Speaker 2] Well said. David’s guidebook sounds like an invaluable resource for anyone considering this trek. [Speaker 1] It really is. He covers everything you need to know. And if our listeners want to learn even more, I highly recommend checking out his website, The Longest Way Home, or picking up his book, Trekking in Nepal. [Speaker 2] Perfect. Well, I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling inspired. Ready to trade in my office chair for some hiking boots. [Speaker 1] Me too. But for now, we can keep dreaming and planning. [Speaker 2] Who knows? Maybe someday we’ll cross paths on that Larkia La Pass, sharing stories of our own Manaslu adventures. [Speaker 1] Wouldn’t that be amazing? Until then, happy trails to everyone. [Speaker 2] It really does. You know, as we’ve been talking about all this, I keep thinking about how Manaslu compares to other treks in the Himalayas. What makes it stand out? [Speaker 1] That’s a good question. I think David talks about that a lot in his book. He really emphasizes that sense of discovery you get on Manaslu, something that’s harder to find in the more popular trekking areas. [Speaker 2] So it’s like that hidden gem that hasn’t been overrun yet. [Speaker 1] Exactly. He describes it as having a more raw, authentic feel. I like that.He talks about visiting these remote villages where life just moves at a slower pace, where the traditions are still so strong.
[Speaker 2] That cultural immersion must be pretty special. [Speaker 1] Oh, it is. And he also talks about the variety of landscapes you see on the Manaslu trek. [Speaker 2] Right. It’s not just one type of scenery the whole way through. [Speaker 1] No, not at all. You go through lush valleys, forests, high mountain passes, glacial areas. It’s amazing. [Speaker 2] It’s like you get a little bit of everything the Himalayas has to offer all in one trek. [Speaker 1] Right. And something else David brings up that I think is important is responsible trekking. [Speaker 2] Ah, yes. That’s crucial, isn’t it? [Speaker 1] It is. He talks about minimizing our impact, being respectful of the customs, supporting the local communities. [Speaker 2] All part of being a good visitor. [Speaker 1] Exactly. Leaving those mountains as pristine as we found them. [Speaker 2] So that future generations can enjoy them too. [Speaker 1] Right. And he gives some really practical tips, like packing out your trash, using refillable water bottles, supporting local businesses, all those little things that add up. [Speaker 2] Great advice. Being mindful of our actions. [Speaker 1] Yeah. [Speaker 2] It all makes a difference. [Speaker 1] It does. It’s about finding that balance, you know? [Speaker 2] Yeah. [Speaker 1] Adventure and responsibility. [Speaker 2] Absolutely. Well, it sounds like the Manaslu trek is a truly special experience, a chance to really connect with the mountains, with the culture, and with yourself, I imagine. [Speaker 1] It is. And I think David’s guidebook does an amazing job of capturing all of that. If anyone out there is even thinking about this trek, I highly recommend checking out his website. [Speaker 2] The Longest Way Home. [Speaker 1] That’s it. Or picking up his book, Trekking in Nepal. [Speaker 2] Great resources. Well, I would say I’m feeling pretty inspired to lace up my boots and hit the trail. How about you? [Speaker 1] Me too. Maybe someday we’ll both find ourselves on that Larkiala Pass, sharing stories of our own Manaslu adventures. [Speaker 2] That would be incredible. [Speaker 1] It would. Until then, happy trekking, everyone. [Speaker 2] And happy travels.
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